Who leads who home? On the Transfăgărășan, buried under newborn snow, a mother bear advances with two cubs stitched to her shadow, their paws pressing hieroglyphs into the untouched white. She moves with the gravity of folklore, a matron of fur and breath, while the little ones tumble and correct themselves, learning the alphabet of winter. This is not spectacle. This is Romania when the road forgets it was ever human, when the mountain exhales and remembers its first language. Built as a defian
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